Stage 14 – the day I climbed an Atomic Bomb.

Start: 6:00, 11 ºC, sunny

End: 11:05

Distance: 21/317.4 Km

Stayed at: Casa Rural del Poniente

OST: Osanna

Second day of Meseta.

Despite my ankle’s recovery, I was still suffering from intense physical pain. Despite catching up with Kelly and the “whatsapp group”, I didn’t manage to walk with them – too much pain in my feet. Instead of stopping at the monastery along the way, I was praying for Archangel Gabriel to take my pain away. Possibly.

In Burgos, I though I’d prevent future injuries with some quality equipment… silicon soles.

Well – they were a size too small, and that caused all sorts of issues when walking.

So, on this day, I made two life-changing decisions:

1. ditching silicon soles -fuck them
2. ditch my flip-flops

Flip-flops were lightweight, and great for evening walks, still… I knew I was missing a key part of the Camino.

Sandals.

It turns out Castrojeriz has an ancient “Camino Stuff” shop, run by an even more ancient shopowner.

“This is 80 euros! This is worth 120 euros!”

OK, OK… well, the sandals he sold me were my size and great quality, I couldn’t have asked for more.

OK, maybe for a discount… I guess that seller is great, in that his complaints anticipate effectively most requests for a discount.

Forget about being the only decent sports equipment shop in a 50 Km radius…

Regarding the town itself: Castojeriz is a giant banana, overlooked by a fortress on top of a hill.

Big history lesson: in the middle ages, having an unassailable fortress was the equivalent of having a nuclear weapon today.

And Castrojeriz’ fortress is amazing in its views of the Meseta – it’s worth venturing on La Meseta just for that.

After two weeks of walking, sleeping and eating – sometimes all at once – the albergue’s balance revealed I had already lost 15 kilos.

Basically, all the weight I usually needed to lose was already gone – 15 kilograms.

That’s A LOT – and speaks of how physically unfit I was when I embarked on this journey.

To compensate, I joined a few others for dinner at a nice restaurant.

German? Maybe,

Kenny, Cindy & Steve.

Steve and his wife Cindy were part of my first ever audience in Hornillos, and they caught me while I was scouting for a place to ear.

Steve, a retired British primary school teacher, brand new pensioner, jubilant about his final-salary-pension-scheme. The UK thrives on privileges, of course.

Cindy and I shared a passion for fondue. She excused herself early during dinner. Maybe it’s not a coincidence, but Kenny started oversharing shortly thereafter. The more Kenny talked, the more he sounded like a parody of a GOP supporter.

“Fuck the federal government! They turn everything to shit!”

Oversharing about his success as Electrician and his ability to immediately learn any music instruments, Kenny was sad about his children’s wasted youth, thrown away in college.

Cindy and I shared a passion for fondue. Her reasons were slightly different:

“we make a fondue for Christmas, so our children stay at the table a bit longer”

Before dinner, we met an interesting group.

Five German friends – only four present – who started the Camino from their homes in Germany, walking one week per year. After 20 years, they were 2 years away from Santiago.

One week per year along the way… I don’t think I could tolerate that kind of stop-and-go. The reality is that for many, it’s simply not possible to take a 4-5 weeks break.

Guten Caminen to them.

Next stage: Stage 15: Castrojeriz – Poblacion de Campos