Stage 21 – the day I got the best tortilla of the Camino, with Gaudi
Start: 5:50, 11 ºC, sunny
End: 13:50
Distance: 24/506.9 Km
Stayed at: Hotel Rural La Veleta
OST: Italodisco, The Kolors
Today’s stage actually started from Villavante.





At this point, with Leon behind me it all felt like just walking.
Had breakfast near a historical bridge – you could easily imagine some medieval battle taking place around it.
Still very few pilgrims around before 8:00.







For no reason, a oasis – a donativo oasis – was waiting for peregrinos.
Bountiful.


The Wise Pilgrim app kept being useful.
in Justo de la Vega, it mentions “Bar Oasis has the best tortilla” and… yes, indeed.
The tortilla godfather spent many years living in Italy.
Special bundle: “Get tortilla, win a life story”.
I got two slices just to be sure.


So, La Meseta is Burgos – Astorga.
Astorga is the where the Meseta ends – you can actually mark the end of the wheat fields if you keep looking… and looking.





24 Km were not so many at this point – I dedicated two full hours to tourism in Astorga.
Palacio Gaudi is great.




With Leon and Astorga, I visited 2/3 Gaudi sites outside Catalunya.
Time to book a weekend in Malaga…
The catedral is much better outside.




A “short” walk later, I finally completed this stage.
Pro tip: tampons do little for wet shoes. Tabloid paper is still the best remedy.
Spoiler alert
I ended up never needing
- toilet seat covers (by Sandro, Burgos)
- extra roll of toilet paper
- dry ice (“acofar”, from a vending machine in Granon)
but I surely am grateful I had them with me – and they will all be a staple of my Camino backpack.


Next stage: Stage 22: Murias de Rechivaldo – El Acebo